Jaisalmer is a former medieval trading center and a princely state in the western Indian state of Rajasthan, in the heart of the Thar Desert. Known as the “Golden City,” it’s distinguished by its yellow sandstone architecture. Dominating the skyline is Jaisalmer Fort, a sprawling hilltop citadel buttressed by 99 bastions. Behind its massive walls stand the ornate Maharaja’s Palace and intricately carved Jain temples.

The Serai, Jaisalmer is a gorgeous classic encampment set some twenty miles west of the 12th-century medieval citadel of Jaisalmer in the heart of the Great Thar Desert. Boasting 21 luxurious tented suites, this personal and romantic desert-dwelling holds something for everyone. After your camel safari and desert drives over the dunes, you can gently toast a glass of champagne and occupy yourself with spa treatments.

The Sujan Spa is a rare treat with an array of therapies and ayurvedic treatments. There is also a stunning pool. The camp is in the perfect spot to explore the Kingdom of Jaisalmer, excursions to local villages and the fort can be arranged. You can also go on a camel ride into the dunes. Unwind after a busy day on your verandah or at The Bar and enjoy the views across the desert, especially the starry skies.

The Serai is a Relais & Chateaux Hotel.

Take a camel safari and spot deer, gazelle and birds such as the rare Indian bustard. 

The Sundowner on the Dunes expedition is highly recommended: a jeep then camel ride right into the desert, where cocktails and tiffin await you. Sit on a leather safari chair and watch the dunes change colour as the sun goes down. 

Take a guided tour of magical Jaisalmer Fort, often called the ‘Golden City’ due to the gilding of the sandcastle-like fort and Havelis by the setting sun. The elaborately carved Jain temples, with their Dilwara style paintings and the 7-storey City Palace is super impressive. Barter for textiles, jewelry and Rajasthani mirrored wall-hangings in the market.

Have a spa treatment or several to ‘align your body clock with the mystical rhythms of Rajasthan’. There’s ‘the full Serai’ (back, neck and shoulders, foot scrub and massage, scrub and wrap) or great sun-wraps to choose from; products used are chemical-free, blended from Indian herbs and spices.

Laze and read on a pagoda-shaded lounger and swim in the stunning infinity pool. 

Chill out, play chess or read in a leather club chair and smoke a Cuban cigar. 

Practice yoga at the pool, on the deck or beside the water channel which runs between the main tent and main pool.

All suites are canvassed sheltering you with a thousand square feet of space and the interiors are individually styled. With 14 tented suites and 6 luxury suites lining in perfect symmetry of 10 either side of the pool leading down by a candle-lit path to the Royal tented suite at the foot of the camp. Centered on sandstone and formally following the reputation of The Golden City that Jaisalmer has, each suite is decorated in traditional Victorian-safari-style furnishing turning everyone’s Indiana Jones dream into a reality. Filled with honey candle lit brass lanterns, each cream canvass tent includes typically Indian features from woven jute to decorative wooden bowls and a stone bathroom finish.

Children are welcome but they must be well-behaved/not too noisy so as not to disturb the sacred peace of other guests. Extra beds for those between 8 and 12 and baby cots for infants and toddlers (other kids are expected to share their parents’ bed or sleep in a separate tent) can be arranged. However, there are no facilities or activities which specifically cater to children, though they’re likely to enjoy the pool, wide-open space and plentiful opportunities to watch desert wildlife. 

The Serai is in a wilderness area, parents are advised to be aware of the surroundings and to keep an eye on their children who should not wander around at dusk.

Pool, dining tent, bar and lounge tent, the Spa, boutique, organic garden, telephone, fax and email facility, internet access.

The Serai is open between 1 September and 31 March as during the rest of the year the Rajasthan desert is just too hot. Our recommendation is late November before the crowds arrive and when the weather is starting to cool down.

1hr 30mins drive from Jaisalmer Airport (55km)

4 hrs 45mins drive from Jodhpur Airport (252km)